Ostuni Travel Guide: Puglia's White City

Ostuni is the most visually striking town in central Puglia - a hilltop settlement of whitewashed buildings stacked above the olive groves of the Murge plateau, visible for kilometres in every direction. The centro storico has been continuously maintained in lime-white since the 15th century and is genuinely beautiful to walk: lanes barely two metres wide, archways connecting houses, and views from the hilltop across a flat sea of olive trees to the Adriatic.

It sits approximately midway between Bari and Lecce - an easy half-day detour from either, or a natural overnight stop on a drive through Puglia.

The old town

Piazza della Libertà is the main square at the base of the hilltop - the gateway to the centro storico and where most buses stop. The square has a central column topped with Sant’Oronzo (the patron saint of Lecce, but also associated with nearby towns). From here the main street climbs steeply into the whitewashed heart of the old city.

Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta - a 15th-century Gothic-Romanesque cathedral at the highest point of the old town, with a notable rose window and a vaulted interior that is cool even in the height of summer. Free entry; open daily 9am–1pm and 4pm–8pm (summer). The terrace in front of the cathedral offers the best views in town.

Piazza Beato Giovanni - a small square adjacent to the cathedral where outdoor tables appear in the evenings. Good gelato and wine bars cluster here.

Le Mura (the old walls) - the medieval walls are partially preserved and walkable from the outside. The northern section, approached from Via Cattedrale, gives the best view of the town’s whitewashed mass rising above the valley.

Museo di Civiltà Preclassiche della Murgia Meridionale - a small archaeology museum containing the “Dama di Ostuni,” a 28,000-year-old skeleton of a pregnant woman found near Ostuni in 1991 - one of the most complete Upper Palaeolithic finds in Italy. Entry approximately €3.50 as of 2026. Open Tuesday–Sunday 9am–1pm, 4pm–7pm.

Olive oil and the countryside

The plains below Ostuni contain one of the densest concentrations of ancient olive trees in the Mediterranean - individual trees that are provably over 1,000 years old, some estimated at 2,000 years. The Ogliarola cultivar produces a mild, golden oil very unlike the robust oils of northern Puglia - less bitter, lower in polyphenols, with a clean finish.

Masseria Il Frantoio (SS16, 8km north of Ostuni) - an 18th-century masseria (fortified farmhouse) with an olive mill, cooking classes, and accommodation. Tours of the olive oil production are available October–November during harvest. The restaurant serves masseria cuisine - Pugliese farm cooking using their own olive oil, vegetables, and preserved products. Book in advance; it is popular.

Several shops in the centro storico sell Ostuni DOC olive oil: L’Orto di Ostuni (Via Cattedrale) and Il Gusto del Salento (Corso Mazzini) are well-regarded for selecting single-estate oils rather than blends.

Beaches

The coastline below Ostuni is approximately 8km from the centro storico and reached via a winding road through olive groves. There is no walkable connection.

Rosa Marina - a small resort beach with sunbeds and beach clubs (approximately €15–20 for a sunbed pair as of 2026), with shallow clear water. Calmer and more family-oriented than the wilder beaches further north.

Villanova - a quieter stretch with a mix of private beach clubs and free public beach. Sandy bottom, very clean water. Parking available.

Pilone - the furthest north of the Ostuni beaches, with a kite-surfing centre and windier conditions. Good for watching kitesurfers; the free beach area is larger here.

Getting to the beaches: taxi from Piazza della Libertà approximately €15–20 one way. In July and August, a summer shuttle runs from the piazza (frequency and cost vary by season - check at the tourist office on arrival). By car, follow signs to Marina di Ostuni from the SS379.

Where to eat

Osteria del Tempo Perso (Via G. Tanzarella Vitale 47) - arguably the best traditional restaurant in Ostuni. Serves a short menu of Pugliese dishes with exceptional quality - orecchiette, braised meats, excellent cheese. Mains approximately €14–18 as of 2026. Reservations essential in summer.

Porta Nova Ristorante (Via Petrarolo 38) - reliable for grilled fish and pasta, with a terrace near the old walls. Mains approximately €12–16 as of 2026. Busier but more accessible than Tempo Perso for walk-ins.

Trattoria La Cantina (Corso Vittorio Emanuele) - good for a quick, informal lunch. Pugliese staples (fava purée, lampascioni, burrata) at honest prices. Approximately €8–12 for pasta, €5–8 for plates of local cheese and charcuterie as of 2026.

Gelato Artigianale on Via Cattedrale and the lanes near the cathedral: several gelaterias operate; the one at Piazza Beato Giovanni serves an excellent pistachio and a creditable almond-milk granita in summer.

Where to stay

Mid-range (approximately €70–130/night)

Masseria Montenapoleone (Contrada Montenapoleone, approximately 6km from Ostuni) - a restored masseria surrounded by olive groves with a pool and views across the valley. Rooms from approximately €90 in shoulder season. Dinner served on request (set menu approximately €30–35/person as of 2026). Quieter and more authentic than the in-town hotels.

La Sommità Relais (Via Scipione Petrarolo 7) - a boutique hotel within the old town walls, with a rooftop pool and good views. Rooms from approximately €110 in shoulder season, approximately €180 in August as of 2026. The most upscale option within walking distance of the centro storico.

Budget (approximately €35–70/night)

B&B La Macina (Via G. Tanzarella Vitale) - a simple B&B in the old town. Well-positioned, clean, and operated by a welcoming local family. Approximately €45–55/night as of 2026.

Hostel Bel Sit - a smaller hostel option outside the historic walls, with both dormitory and private rooms. Dorms from approximately €25/night, private rooms from approximately €50 as of 2026.

How to get there

From Bari: Trenitalia regional train to Ostuni - approximately 70–80 minutes, approximately €7–9. Trains run several times daily. A taxi from the station to the centro storico costs approximately €8–10. For dedicated Ostuni walking tours and local guided experiences, local guides cover the centro storico, the archaeology museum, and the olive oil countryside. For a guided day combining Ostuni with other Puglia highlights, Bari-based day tours cover the white cities circuit with transport included.

From Lecce: approximately 40–50 minutes by regional train, approximately €5. The fastest connection.

By car: 90km south of Bari on the SS379/A14. Follow signs to the centro storico; parking is available in signed lots at the base of the hill (approximately €1.50–2/hour as of 2026). The old town is pedestrianised above the lower piazza.